São Tomé —At the maternal and child health centre of Agua Grande in the country’s capital, São Tomé, it’s vaccination day. By 9:00, the benches are filled with mothers cradling their babies and fathers watching over older children, while health booklets pass quietly from hand to hand amid the conversations. In the adjacent rooms, nurses prepare the vaccines, call families one by one and carefully record the data. Calm and trust fill the space.